Silky Shallot Soup with Crispy Pancetta

For the last few years, I have been engaged in a wonderful relationship with shallots. I've found their sweet, sophisticated flavor has improved my cooking immensely, and they have, in many cases, replaced onions in my kitchen.

When food52 recently chose onion or garlic soup for one of its contests, I considered French onion soup, a garlic chorizo soup (need to pursue this idea one day), but then, it became apparent that I needed to create a shallot soup. It's unique -- certainly not something I've seen in cookbooks or restaurant menus -- and it fits my cooking sensibility right now.

This light-bodied soup contrasts the delicate profile of shallots with earthy rosemary and a touch of cream for a velvety texture. Top with pancetta and frizzled shallots for a burst of salty crispness and to echo the soup's essence. The end result is a subtle, yet intensely flavored dish.

Serve this silky brew as a first course for beef or chicken dishes, or as a main course with the obligatory crisp green salad and crusty bread.

Note: this recipe was a food52 Editors' Pick.

Silky Shallot Soup with Crispy Pancetta

Serves 4-6

1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons butter
5 cups shallots, thinly sliced, plus a half cup
Salt, pepper and crushed red pepper, to taste
1 bay leaf
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tablespoon rosemary, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
20 ounces good quality chicken stock
1/4 cup heavy cream
5 1/2 inch slices pancetta, cubed

Heat olive oil and butter in a large soup pot over medium, add 5 cups shallots, sweat until soft for several minutes.

Add salt, pepper, crushed red pepper and bay leaf. Cook until golden and beginning to caramelize, stirring often, about 20 minutes. Add garlic and rosemary.

After another five minutes or so, deglaze with wine and reduce. Add chicken stock and simmer for at least 10 minutes, longer if you have the time. Remove bay leaf.

Meantime, saute pancetta in a stainless steel pan until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Add remaining 1/2 cup shallots to pancetta fat and cook until crisp. Place on paper towels.

Remove soup from heat and puree with an immersion blender or in a food processor. Stir in cream and serve, topped with pancetta and frizzled shallots.

Gingery Turkey Meatball Soup with Spinach and Tomatoes

When it's cold and blustery, as it is just about all over the country these days, I head to the kitchen to fire up a big pot of soup. Warming, soothing and comforting, a steamy bowl of soup eases the indignity of winter's grey, sodden days.

This rendition blends the concept of Italian Wedding Soup with Asian flavors such as ginger, sesame oil and spicy sriracha, to create an entirely new dish. The result is an assertive, vegetable laden broth with a burst of citrus and a streak of heat, studded with savory, tender meatballs. 

Gingery Turkey Meatball Soup with Spinach and Tomatoes

Serves 8-10

For Soup:

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 large carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 heaping cup of shallots, sliced thinly
4 cloves garlic, minced
Sea or Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
1 teaspoon sriracha
1/4 cup fresh basil, minced
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, minced

64 ounces good quality chicken stock
Zest of half a lime
Zest of half a lemon, preferably Meyer

5 oz. baby spinach leaves

1 cup grape tomatoes, sliced in half

For Meatballs:
2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon sriracha
2 teaspoons sesame oil
3 tablespoons fresh basil, minced
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, minced
Zest of half a lime
Zest of half a lemon, preferably Meyer
3/4 cup bread crumbs (I used whole wheat)
1.25 pounds ground turkey

1/2 pound ditalini, cooked al dente

For soup: In a large stock or soup pot, saute celery and carrots over medium heat for about five minutes. Add shallots and continue to cook, until vegetables begin to soften. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add garlic, stirring often.

After another 10 minutes, add ginger, sriracha, basil and cilantro. Combine well and add stock. Allow to simmer while you prepare meatballs. 

For meatballs: In a large bowl, add ginger, garlic, shallot, sriracha, sesame oil, basil, cilantro, lime and lemon zest. Combine well, then stir in breadcrumbs. Add ground turkey and fold until combined. Shape into 1.5-inch meatballs and drop into soup.

Gently stir in tomatoes and spinach and let soup to simmer until meatballs are cooked, about 20 minutes. Just before serving, add lime and lemon zest. 

In the meantime, cook ditalini in boiling salted water until very al dente, usually at least three minutes less then the package calls for, and add a small handful of pasta to each bowl when serving. Store leftover pasta separately from soup to preserve texture.

Michael Symon's Spicy Tomato Soup with Blue Cheese

Tomato soup, in all its forms, is rich, comforting and complex. Over the years, I've made a number of versions: with fresh ripe summer tomatoes and basil; with roasted tomatoes and mixed herbs; and with pancetta and tapenade. All have a place in my kitchen.

So, when I saw Michael Symon's version with Sriracha and blue cheese, I was intrigued. I first saw the recipe when flipping through his new cookbook, Live to Cook, and it remained lodged in my mind for a few weeks.

I recently had a few moments to spare, with all the ingredients on hand, and was pleasantly surprised at how quick and easy it is to make.

Symon's soup combines olive oil, red onion, garlic, canned San Marzano tomatoes, chicken stock, heavy cream, Sriracha, fresh oregano and blue cheese in a big stockpot. I subbed fresh basil. You allow the soup to simmer for about 45 minutes and puree. I used a stick blender, but to get the finest consistency, follow the recipe, whirl in a blender and strain.

This soup is velvety, smokey and briney. Deeply satisfying and flavorful. It makes a lovely first course and would pair beautifully with grilled steak or roast chicken.

Next time, I'd cut the Sriracha in half and dial back on the cream. I love the heat but the spice might be too much for some. The texture is perfect, but I lean toward less cream, even in creamy soups -- it tends to mute the flavors and weigh it down. Just a little is enough for me.

To get the recipe and view a video podcast with Michael Symon, see The Amateur Gourmet.

Cooking With Style at The Ritz

Editor's Note: Guest blogger Roger Hart is a friend and the executive editor of AutoWeek magazine. He's also a professional photographer and world traveler who loves a fine meal.

Twelve times each year the chefs at the Ritz Carlton in Dearborn, Mich., open up their kitchen and share some of their secrets during their “Cooking With Style” program. My wife, Lisa, was lucky enough to win two tickets to the November event – “Roman Holiday, Italian Favorites” – and we came away having had a wonderful evening with some good recipes to boot.

Now first off, the Ritz bills this as a cooking class (at $225 per couple), and while it’s true that you do get an inside look of the kitchen, the class is not hands on at all. Participants receive a Ritz-Carlton apron, but all we used it for was to make sure the appetizers didn’t get on our clothes. So if you’re looking for a hands-on adventure, don’t bother.

But that’s not to say you don’t learn something. Just being inside a commercial kitchen gives any cook a chance to gather some new ideas or a new technique. Plus, we had at our disposal one of the Ritz’ line chefs, plus the chef du cuisine…and you can ask them questions all night long.

My wife and I have visited Italy, I get there often for my work, and we both enjoy Italian food quite a bit, so we expected this to be a terrific evening. And we weren’t disappointed.First off were appetizers galore, set up in the kitchen. While sipping a glass of red wine (sorry, I didn’t write down the name) we enjoyed a variety of cheeses, Asiago, Taleggio, Pecorino Romano, Gorgonzola, Fontina and Ricotta Salata. Add to that a couple of unique spreads, one of olives and one of sun dried tomatoes. Bruschetta, of course, plus a variety of Italian meats, including Bresaola, Mortadella, Capicola, Prosciutto and Salami.

I could have a dinner of just appetizers, and with the broad variety available for tasting, I was happy right there. But the best was yet to come.

While we were enjoying the appetizers, chef Eric (the line chef) was whipping up a basil vinaigrette salad dressing in a good processor. It would be the dressing for the salad of mixed greens, pine nuts, fried prosciutto, artichokes, olives and parmesan chips that we would enjoy later.

And speaking of later, once we were done with the appetizers, the group was led to an elaborately decorated ball room in the Ritz, set up with tables in a large X pattern. The flowers and decorations were a nice addition, and with the low-lighting and candles on the table, created a romantic atmosphere, fitting for the Roman Holiday theme.

Following the salad was a course of Italian Wedding Soup. Featuring meatballs made of beef, veal and pork, we found the soup, much like everything else this evening, terrific.

A pasta course of penne noodles topped with a marinara was served family style along with the main course, Chicken Piccata. Knowing there were cannolis for desert (and they were some of the best I’ve ever had), I indulged in just one of the two eight-ounce chicken breasts. The Piccata sauce, rich with butter, white wine, lemon juice and capers, had a wonderful crisp tanginess with a creamy finish. Delicious.

Our only disappointment with the evening was that we hadn’t planned ahead to spend the night at the Ritz, taking time to enjoy the wine. Yes, we’d attend the class again, and pay our way this time.

Italian Chicken Chili and Rosemary Thyme Pita Chips

The changing seasons usher in new flavors and new dishes -- and Fall brings with it the best of both. It's time to break out the dutch oven and create all manner of soups, stews, braises and chili.

Wes' sister and her son came for dinner on Halloween, so I decided to improvise on the standard one-pot meal and make an Italian-inspired chicken chili.

Actually, it's a bit of a stretch to call this chili -- it's more like a stew, or with a little more liquid, could pass as a soup. Paired with crispy, herby Rosemary Thyme Pita Chips by machef on food52, it made for a perfect pre-trick-or-treat meal.

These lightly sweet and savory crisps are now a staple in our home

What Fall dishes make it back to your table year-after-year? I'd love to hear about your favorites in the comments section.

Italian Chicken Chili

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced thinly

2 medium carrots, diced

2 stalks celery, diced

1/2 a red bell pepper, diced

3 cloves minced garlic

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

crushed red pepper, to taste

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano (you can use fresh but I only had dried on hand)

1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme

1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage

1/2 cup dry white wine, preferably Italian

3.5 cups cooked, shredded chicken, white and dark meat

1 15 oz can drained and rinsed cannellini beans

2-3 cups homemade chicken stock, to taste (you can use a good-quality canned stock, but will sacrifice flavor)

1/3 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped

Freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese, for serving

1) Pour olive oil into a large dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, celery and red pepper and cook until soft, about 15 minutes, stirring often.

2) Add garlic, salt, pepper, crushed red pepper and dried and fresh herbs. Enjoy the earthy, fragrant scents that waft through your kitchen.

3) Deglaze the pot with the white wine, scraping up any lovely browned bits from the bottom.

4) Add chicken, beans and combine gently until lightly warmed, taking care to keep the beans whole.

5) Pour the stock into the chicken mixture. Be liberal if you want a brothy, soupy consistency, and less if you're looking for a chili or stew consistency.

6) Continue to cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Garnish with chopped basil leaves and freshly grated parmesan.

Serve with rosemary pita chips, a crisp green salad, and a glass of wine. Enjoy!

Savory Wild Mushroom Soup

I've been obsessed with wild mushrooms lately. They are sturdy and substantial enough to stand alone in most cold-weather dishes, but also willingly slip into the background as a supporting player. They add a rustic complexity that can't be duplicated.

When food52 ran a contest recently for "best mushroom soup," I set out to create a recipe and submit it for consideration. 

Now, if you regularly read this blog, you'll see I tend to cook by instinct. I appreciate precise ratios and proper proportion, and I do follow recipes, but I often improvise and ad lib in the kitchen. And I never write anything down. So this posed an intriguing challenge. 

Building a recipe requires a unique set of artistic and scientific skill: one that I hope to have years ahead to develop. I brainstormed flavor combinations, studied other recipes, and devoted a place in my mind to work through the equation while I went about my daily life. I sketched it out on paper, then took to the kitchen and refined and revised as I went along.

The result? A light-bodied, yet substantial soup that blends shallot, garlic, white wine, fresh rosemary, sage, thyme, four varieties of wild mushrooms, white beans and a touch of cream, pureed into a silky brew. My friend Jordana at Menu Maniac served as a tester, and I was excited and gratified to see that food52 named it an Editor's Pick (click to see recipe)!

Very Veggie Soup

There's something about soup that's comforting, soothing and good for your mind, body and spirit. The soup pot is a well-used accessory in our kitchen, and this Very Veggie Soup is a staple. This particular soup is also the perfect way to ease into healthy-eating mode after, say, a period of over-indulging. Granted, it isn't particularly photogenic, but have faith, it's delicious.

My sister-in-law Simona, a former restaurant cook in Italy and one of my kitchen mentors, created this recipe, and I've adapted it a bit over the years. Don't be tempted to use old, wilted or wrinkly veggies - this soup's clean, clear flavors require the freshest, best vegetables you can find.

With this in mind, and since we're at the peak of the harvest, Wes and I decided to use all local veggies this time - either from Eastern Market or our own backyard. Feel free to use whatever veggies you like best if you make this at home.

From Eastern Market: shallots, Italian red onions and cippoline onions, all from my favorite onion farmer at Eastern Market (yes, I now have an onion guy), garlic and carrot (also from the onion guy), celery and zucchini.

From our garden: Broccoli, swiss chard, basil and flat leaf parsley.

Directions:

Thinly slice a big shallot, 5 red onions (they're small) and about 5 medium cippoline onions. Or, just keep it simple and slice up one big plain onion. Crush and chop four garlic cloves and thinly slice two celery stalks and two good-sized carrots. Season generously with salt, pepper and a pinched of crushed red pepper for an added kick and saute in a big soup pot or dutch oven in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the veggies are soft, about 20 minutes. Then add a head of chopped broccoli, 2-3 chopped zucchinis and cook another 20-30 minutes. Throw in a few big handfuls of greens, such as baby spinach or swiss chard and stir.

Next, add enough chicken or vegetable stock to cover the vegetables. Homemade stock is best, it will make this soup amazing, but if you're pressed for time use the best boxed stock you can find.

Simmer until all the veggies are soft, about an hour, or even two if you have the time, stirring occasionally. Add a can of can of drained, rinsed cannellini beans and a couple of handful of chopped fresh herbs about 15 minutes before you take it off the burner. The beans give the soup a rich, velvety texture and added fiber and protein without extra fat.

Let it cool for 15-20 minutes, then puree with an immersion blender or in a food processor.

This soup is a great starter, or if you want to serve it as an entree, consider adding protein such as chopped chicken, shrimp, crab or leftover salmon fillet.

Either way, when serving, drizzle your best extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with high quality parmesan cheese for a healthy, satisfying, comforting bowl of goodness.

Lunch at The Hill

Wes and I are on a mini staycation and enjoying stellar late-summer weather. We decided to take advantage with a cafe lunch at The Hill.

I mentioned The Hill in my last post - despite a few ownership and name changes over the years, it remains a neighborhood institution. Small, but stately, fancy yet informal, trendy and traditional, it covers a lot of bases.

We started with a cup of their signature tomato bisque. Velvety, tart, flavorful, and not too heavy for a summer day. 

Next, we shared their open-faced tenderloin steak sandwich topped with melted Maytag bleu cheese. The rich, medium rare steak tops crispy white toast points, and the creamy, tangy bleu adds contrast and balance all at once. A glass of Echelon pinot noir was the perfect pairing to our lovely outdoor lunch. 

Lunching out on a day off is a glorious way to spend the time, and I encourage you to give it a try if it's not already part of your vacation repertoire. What are your favorite lunch spots?