Mark Bittman's Kimchi Rice with Beef

Remember that cold I told you about in my last post? Well, it turned out to be bronchitis. I've spent the better part of three weeks coughing incessantly, which, by the way, has really helped with the healing from the back surgery. It's been a lot of fun. Ahem.

Luckily, most of that is behind me and I'm finally starting to feel pretty good again. I'm doing everything in moderation, and it's nice.

All this downtime has given me a chance to catch up on my reading. Wes recently gave me Mark Bittman's new book: The Food Matters Cook Book: 500 Revolutionary Recipes for Better Living.

I've read and enjoyed Bittman for years in the New York Times, have a couple of his earlier cookbooks, and read his original Food Matters book.

Bittman is a voice of reason in the firestorm and confusion surrounding food and food politics. A few years ago his doctor told him his blood pressure and cholesterol were high, and despite decades as an avid runner, years of living the rich, food-writer lifestyle had taken a toll.

So, he made some changes. He now eats vegan until dinnertime, most days, and has created a collection of recipes that focus mostly on vegetables, with meat in a supporting role. He's lost 35 pounds and his medical numbers are back to healthy levels.

While I don't see myself going vegan, even part-time, I can relate to the idea of eating less meat, less often. I'm comfortable with treating it more like a condiment or side dish than a main course.

And I already limit my dairy intake to yogurt and cheese, since I don't tolerate milk or certain other dairy products particularly well.

But what I like about Bittman's book is he doesn't approach it as an activist -- he doesn't insist you adopt his lifestyle, or anyone else's. It's about getting educated and making your own choices -- doing what works for you.

He offers common-sense advice, stuff we all know: reduce animal products, enjoy plants "with abandon," add more beans and whole grains, avoid processed foods and make room for treats. Don't deprive yourself, just don't go overboard.

With this in mind, the book even contains beef recipes, including this one that instantly appealed to me: Kimchi Rice with Beef. It's so simple, even a sick, injured person can manage it, and so satisfying you'll come back to it again and again.

I adapted the recipe: I used a very good quality cole slaw mix from my local independently owned market instead of a whole cabbage, added a couple of handfuls of shredded carrot, upped the ginger by a tablespoon, reduced the red chile flakes by half a tablespoon, used reduced-sodium soy sauce and added 4 extra ounces of flank steak.

I know what you're thinking, I missed the whole point by adding extra meat. But, again, it's about choices and even with the added amount, the recipe yielded about 3 ounces of meat per person. Moderation, right?

Kimchi Rice with Beef

Adapted from Mark Bittman, serves 4

Ingredients

12 ounces coleslaw mix (or one head of cabbage, shredded)

1 cup shredded carrots

Salt

6 scallions, chopped

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced ginger

1/2 tablespoon red chile flakes

1 tablespoon sugar (I used sugar in the raw, aka Demerera sugar)

2 tablespoons reduced sodium soy sauce

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

12 ounces beef flank or skirt steak, very thinly sliced

2 cups cooked short- or long-grain brown rice

Put the cabbage and carrots in a colander and toss well with two tablespoons of salt. Let it sit over a bowl until it wilts at least two hours. Rinse the mixture well and pat dry.

Combine scallions, garlic, ginger, chile flakes sugar and soy sauce in a large bowl. Mix, then toss in cabbage. Allow to sit another two hours.

When the kimchi is ready, put a large, deep skillet over high heat until it begins to smoke, about 3-4 minutes. Swirl in 2 tablespoons of the oil, add the beef, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is seared but still pink inside, 2-3 minutes. Remove the beef from the skillet.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet, swirl it around, and begin to add the rice a bit at a time, breaking up any clumps and stirring into the oil. When all the rice is added, cook, stirring frequently, until the rice becomes nice and crisp, 3-5 minutes. Return the beef to the pan and stir in the kimchi. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Clean Eating Magazine Reader Recipe Testing

As you might have read here, I recently started serving as a reader recipe tester for Clean Eating magazine. I really like this publication. Their editors are committed to healthy eats, but still love good cooking and good food.

A few months back, I tested about five recipes, and they used one of my comments on their web site. Check it out!

If you're into healthy eating, or just want to learn more, I highly encourage you to pick up the May/June issue and try a few recipes yourself. Let me know what you think!

Life on a Plate: Recipe Testing -- Risotto

A few weeks ago, food52 started giving its community cooks the opportunity to test a selection of recipes as potential Editors' Picks. An Editors' Pick is considered an honorable mention, and I've been fortunate enough to have a few recipes selected as EPs.

Amanda and Merrill, who founded food52, test a lot of recipes each week, but they're not always able to test every Editors' Pick, relying instead on their well-honed instincts. So, since they prefer to have all the recipes curated, they've given us, the cooks, a chance to participate in the process.

So far, I've tested three recipes: Lamb chops with blood orange and mint compote and feta mashed potatoes, by chez lady s, Dinner Party Meatloaf by gabrielaskitchen and Butternut Squash Risotto with Pancetta, Manchego and Sage.

The lovely risotto, made by food52 cook kristalberg, ended up as an Editors' Pick -- take a look to hear more about this great dish. In fact, we've really enjoyed testing and eating all the dishes.

Testing these recipes and serving them to my family has been an inspiring endeavor. It feels more personal than preparing a recipe from a cookbook or magazine. As I cook, I can't help but imagine the people who developed the recipes -- people I "know" from the site but have never met -- and then wonder if these are heirloom recipes, family favorites or if they were created specifically for food52.

Every recipe has a story -- whether it's a celebration, joyful memory or simple, satisfying moment -- in the end, it all adds up to life on a plate.

Barramundi with Lemon, Garlic and White Wine Sauce

So, it's been a while. Quite a long while, actually. It's a little embarrassing. 

And yes, the usual excuses apply. Long work days, business travel, no time to plan, shop or cook -- much less photograph, write and post. When I've found my way to the kitchen, I've relied on standbys -- meals you've read about here, or, frankly, meals that just aren't blog-worthy. 

I've learned that for me, blogging is a little like exercising: when I drift away from my routine, I have to really push myself to get out there again. So, I'm pushing. Easing back into the kitchen, trying to get creative, planning menus.

I started slowly. You know, walking before I run. And, honestly, since my actual exercise routine has also been somewhat neglected these past weeks, I was thinking about something light. Something spring-like.

At first, I was thinking salmon. But then, at my local market, I saw something new to me: Barramundi. A sturdy white fish that apparently boasts as many Omega-3 fatty acids as salmon. Or so says Dr. Oz. And my fishmonger.

I was intrigued. At home, I unwrapped my catch, sprinkled on some sea salt and freshly crushed black pepper, and allowed it to sit for a bit. Meanwhile, Wes prepped a green salad and some roasted grape tomatoes with olive oil, salt, pepper and a bit of grated parmesan. 

I poured olive oil into an enamelled cast iron skillet, patiently waited it for it to get hot, and slid in the fillets. It sizzled comfortingly, a familiar, welcome sound. About five minutes later, as the sides of the fish began to whiten more brightly and I could tell they wouldn't stick to the pan, I flipped and waited another few minutes. 

Then, I slipped the fillets onto a platter, tucked a minced garlic clove, a tablespoon of chopped lemon thyme and the zest and juice of a Meyer lemon into the pan, and deglazed with a big splash of dry white wine. Another satisfying sizzle. A final step: a small pat of butter, enough to give the sauce a little depth and a silky finish. Swirled it around a few times -- done.

I plated, drizzled some sauce atop the fillets and tried my new find. Barramundi is mild and meaty, with a texture and flavor resembling halibut. I learned it should be well seasoned and can stand up to strong, hearty ingredients and sauces. And I discovered a new find for my repertoire.

Truly, a simple dish. But a great start. I think I'm finding my stride again. Next up, that nice long run...

Silky Shallot Soup with Crispy Pancetta

For the last few years, I have been engaged in a wonderful relationship with shallots. I've found their sweet, sophisticated flavor has improved my cooking immensely, and they have, in many cases, replaced onions in my kitchen.

When food52 recently chose onion or garlic soup for one of its contests, I considered French onion soup, a garlic chorizo soup (need to pursue this idea one day), but then, it became apparent that I needed to create a shallot soup. It's unique -- certainly not something I've seen in cookbooks or restaurant menus -- and it fits my cooking sensibility right now.

This light-bodied soup contrasts the delicate profile of shallots with earthy rosemary and a touch of cream for a velvety texture. Top with pancetta and frizzled shallots for a burst of salty crispness and to echo the soup's essence. The end result is a subtle, yet intensely flavored dish.

Serve this silky brew as a first course for beef or chicken dishes, or as a main course with the obligatory crisp green salad and crusty bread.

Note: this recipe was a food52 Editors' Pick.

Silky Shallot Soup with Crispy Pancetta

Serves 4-6

1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons butter
5 cups shallots, thinly sliced, plus a half cup
Salt, pepper and crushed red pepper, to taste
1 bay leaf
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tablespoon rosemary, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
20 ounces good quality chicken stock
1/4 cup heavy cream
5 1/2 inch slices pancetta, cubed

Heat olive oil and butter in a large soup pot over medium, add 5 cups shallots, sweat until soft for several minutes.

Add salt, pepper, crushed red pepper and bay leaf. Cook until golden and beginning to caramelize, stirring often, about 20 minutes. Add garlic and rosemary.

After another five minutes or so, deglaze with wine and reduce. Add chicken stock and simmer for at least 10 minutes, longer if you have the time. Remove bay leaf.

Meantime, saute pancetta in a stainless steel pan until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Add remaining 1/2 cup shallots to pancetta fat and cook until crisp. Place on paper towels.

Remove soup from heat and puree with an immersion blender or in a food processor. Stir in cream and serve, topped with pancetta and frizzled shallots.

Gingery Turkey Meatball Soup with Spinach and Tomatoes

When it's cold and blustery, as it is just about all over the country these days, I head to the kitchen to fire up a big pot of soup. Warming, soothing and comforting, a steamy bowl of soup eases the indignity of winter's grey, sodden days.

This rendition blends the concept of Italian Wedding Soup with Asian flavors such as ginger, sesame oil and spicy sriracha, to create an entirely new dish. The result is an assertive, vegetable laden broth with a burst of citrus and a streak of heat, studded with savory, tender meatballs. 

Gingery Turkey Meatball Soup with Spinach and Tomatoes

Serves 8-10

For Soup:

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 large carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 heaping cup of shallots, sliced thinly
4 cloves garlic, minced
Sea or Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
1 teaspoon sriracha
1/4 cup fresh basil, minced
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, minced

64 ounces good quality chicken stock
Zest of half a lime
Zest of half a lemon, preferably Meyer

5 oz. baby spinach leaves

1 cup grape tomatoes, sliced in half

For Meatballs:
2 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon sriracha
2 teaspoons sesame oil
3 tablespoons fresh basil, minced
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, minced
Zest of half a lime
Zest of half a lemon, preferably Meyer
3/4 cup bread crumbs (I used whole wheat)
1.25 pounds ground turkey

1/2 pound ditalini, cooked al dente

For soup: In a large stock or soup pot, saute celery and carrots over medium heat for about five minutes. Add shallots and continue to cook, until vegetables begin to soften. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add garlic, stirring often.

After another 10 minutes, add ginger, sriracha, basil and cilantro. Combine well and add stock. Allow to simmer while you prepare meatballs. 

For meatballs: In a large bowl, add ginger, garlic, shallot, sriracha, sesame oil, basil, cilantro, lime and lemon zest. Combine well, then stir in breadcrumbs. Add ground turkey and fold until combined. Shape into 1.5-inch meatballs and drop into soup.

Gently stir in tomatoes and spinach and let soup to simmer until meatballs are cooked, about 20 minutes. Just before serving, add lime and lemon zest. 

In the meantime, cook ditalini in boiling salted water until very al dente, usually at least three minutes less then the package calls for, and add a small handful of pasta to each bowl when serving. Store leftover pasta separately from soup to preserve texture.

food52 Editors' Pick -- Antipasto Couscous Cakes

Recently, food52, one of my all-time favorite food sites, selected couscous for one of their weekly contest ingredients.

I've enjoyed many couscous dishes over the years, but thought it was time for me to try something a little different. So, I decided to take the best components of an antipasto platter, mix in a little couscous and fry them up into little crispy cakes. I used kalamata olives, parmesan cheese, roasted tomatoes and sopressata, toasted pine nuts and, the kicker, red wine vinegar. The strong, salty flavors mingle with the mellow cheese, and the red wine vinegar adds a tangy bite. You can serve these Antipasto Couscous Cakes as appetizers, on top of salads or as a main dish.

I was pleased and excited to see that the dish was an Editors' Pick on the site, which is kind of like an honorable mention. Thanks, Amanda and Merrill!

Even better, my friend Abbie's recipe for Cedar Plank Grilled Loup De Mer is a finalist on the site this week! If she wins, her great dish will be featured in the food52 cookbook. So, please take a moment to go to the site and if you like her recipe, and I think you will, vote for her! Abbie is an excellent, creative cook and never fails to inspire me.

Antipasto Couscous Cakes

Serves 8-10

1 cup grape tomatoes
2 cups couscous, cooked and chilled (I prefer whole wheat couscous)
1 clove garlic, minced
1/3 cup diced sopressata
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/4 cup kalamata olives, sliced
1.5 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
pinch crushed red pepper flakes
salt and pepper, to taste
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped
2.5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
olive oil, for frying

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place tomatoes into a large plastic freezer bag, drizzle in olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, then arrange tomatoes on a parchment or Silpat-lined cookie sheet, and roast for 20-30 minutes. Cool and slice in half.

Toast pine nuts over medium heat in a small pan, then cool.

Put couscous into a large bowl. Mix in garlic, sopressata, parmesan, olives, roasted tomatoes, red wine vinegar, pine nuts, crushed red pepper, salt and pepper.

Beat egg and egg yolk with a fork, the fold into couscous mixture. Gently add basil and sprinkle in flour, stirring until well combined.

Chill couscous for at least 30 minutes. Heat a large skillet over medium flame and add enough olive oil to lightly coat the bottom. Scoop couscous with a 1/4 cup measure, press firmly into cup, then tap gently into your hand and mold into cakes with your hands. Place carefully into oil.

Repeat. Add more oil only if needed.

Fry couscous cakes until golden and crisp on both sides, drain on paper towels, let cool a few moments and serve. These are tasty at room temperature, as well.

Dinner at El Barzon

So we had dinner at El Barzon the other night, and my lingering thought is this place is Detroit's best-kept secret.


El Barzon, on Junction, just south of Michigan Ave., is owned by Norberto and Silvia Garita. Norberto spent eight years at Il Posto in Southfield, perfecting pastas and other Italian specialties. Silvia focuses on the traditional recipes of their native Puebla, Mexico. The couple has been in the States for 30 years, much of that time working at restaurants in New York.


The secret to El Barzon is everything is made from scratch, and the Garitas' source many ingredients locally. The simple, unassuming atmosphere is casual and comforting. Come as you are, feel free to bring the family, and relax.

On our menu:

-Housemade tortilla chips with spicy, fire-roasted red and creamy, cilantro infused green salsa. Best chips and salsa in town. Pair with a Mexican beer.

-Perfectly cooked crisp calamari with zucchini strips and tomato sauce. The zucchini strips are a thoughtful touch, and the sauce is spiked with herbs, olive oil and a touch of garlic. So flavorful.

-Veal chop stuffed with prosciutto and cheese, topped with a truffle sauce; potato gratin and sauteed spinach. A decadent, gorgeous dish. Truly memorable.

-Squid ink linguine with shrimp, crab and red sauce. Sweet and savory all at once.

The veal and linguine were specials, but the regular menu is vast and tempting. The portions are generous -- we ate half of everything and brought the rest home -- and the prices modest. For more on El Barzon, see Nicole Ray's piece in the fall issue of edibleWOW (the story's not online, sorry).

If you haven't been to El Barzon yet, I encourage you to go. Soon. Let's not keep this secret to ourselves any longer.

Short Ribs over Pappardelle

If you're looking for a special, decadent meal, look no further than these short ribs over pappardelle. We welcomed 2010 with this meal on New Year's Day, and found it the perfect way to mark a new decade.

Beef short ribs are a tender, succulent cut that lend themselves to long, slow cooking. They are versatile and adaptable -- you can infuse them with all manner of flavors, including French, Korean and Italian.

We went Italian this time, adapting Giada De Laurentiis' recipe. It combines rich, savory flavors like pancetta, rosemary and red wine with onion, garlic, carrot, beef broth and more.

This recipe calls for braising, a simple technique that coaxes maximum flavor and tenderness out of any cut. You brown the meat in a big pot, add your aromatics, herbs and braising liquid -- usually wine and/or stock) and then leave it alone for a few hours to work its magic. The result is meltingly soft and silky.

I started by crisping up some chopped pancetta, then removing it from the pot. Next, I seasoned the short ribs with salt and pepper, dredged them lightly in flour and browned over medium heat on all sides.

Meantime, I pulsed onion, carrot, garlic, tomato paste and tomatoes in a food processor until finely minced. I love this technique -- it made the sauce smooth and intensely flavorful. Once the short ribs are browned, you add the vegetable mixture back into the pot, add the pancetta, season with salt, pepper and various herbs, beef broth and wine. Cover the pot and go do other things for 75 minutes.

Then, remove the lid and stir occasionally for another 90 minutes. Remove the short ribs, shred the meat and return back to the pot. Cook up your pasta al dente and you're done. You can also let the shredded meat chill overnight and reheat the next day for even more flavor. We were supposed to grate a bit of dark chocolate over the finished dish -- chocolate intensifies the flavor of beef -- but we forgot. Next time.

This is rustic comfort food at its best, suitable for entertaining and great for a family Sunday supper. It was also one of the best things to come out of my kitchen in a long time -- this recipe really works.

Pasta with Lamb Sauce

When it comes to lamb, I've arrived to the party fashionably late. I've really only grown to appreciate it in the last 10 years. But today, I adore lamb chops, roast lamb, lamb ragu, and my latest concoction: pasta with lamb sauce.

Pasta with lamb sauce is really a simpler, cleaner tasting ragu -- I omit the tomatoes, celery and carrots. The end result is essentially pasta with ground meat, but it's so much more than that.

Lamb's rustic assertiveness, combined with the sweet shallot and earthy rosemary, makes this a flavorful dish I crave regularly. Its simplicity is its beauty; as much as I love a ragu, I find the tomatoes can mute the aromatics, herbs and the lamb, and lend a certain heaviness. With this version, every flavor bursts through brightly. Give it a try.

Pasta with Lamb Sauce

2 T olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced shallots
4 cloves minced garlic

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and crushed red pepper to taste

2 T minced fresh rosemary

1.25 pounds ground lamb

1/2 cup dry white wine

Pasta cooking water, if needed

Freshly grated parmesan

3/4 pounds short-cut pasta, such as penne or fusilli (plain, whole wheat or brown rice)

Boil pasta in salted water to al dente. Drain and save up to 1 cup pasta water. Meantime, heat olive oil in a large saute pan over medium. Add shallots, cook for several minutes until soft, then add garlic. Continue to saute a few more minutes until shallots are lightly browned; add rosemary and stir well to combine.

Add ground lamb and break up to combine. Turn up flame to medium high. When the lamb is slightly pink, deglaze with white wine and allow to reduce for a few minutes. If pan seems dry, add a little pasta water. Add cooked pasta to lamb and combine well. Serve with freshly grated parmesan, a glass of red and a vegetable such as broccoli or asparagus.

Paella Risotto with Shrimp, Scallops and Crab

I love paella. And risotto. So, then comes the next logical step: combining them into a single luscious dish.

I took a few liberties with this paella risotto, using a recipe from Bon Appetit as inspiration and adapting it to my taste. Traditionally, paella incorporates mussels and/or clams. But I decided to go with shrimp, crab and scallops -- ingredients one often finds in risotto. I wanted to preserve the Spanish sensibility of paella, so I included traditional ingredients such as chorizo, saffron and smoked paprika. And I included some anchovies, tomato paste and orange zest to add depth.

The result is a smoky, sultry, creamy dish. The lightness of the seafood and zest balances the heft of the sausage and rice. The saffron perfumes the dish and the anchovy and tomato pastes and paprika create a complex backdrop. Give it a try!

Paella Risotto

1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 pound chorizo, casings removed
1 cup thinly sliced shallots
3 garlic cloves, minced

32 oz. fish stock
1 teaspoon saffron threads
1 bay leaf

2 cups arborio rice

1 tablespoon anchovy paste
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 tablespoon smoked paprika
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 sprigs fresh thyme

1/2 pound uncooked medium peeled and deveined shrimp
1/2 pound scallops, sliced in half if large
1/2 pound crab meat, picked over
5 oz frozen peas

1 tablespoon orange zest

Heat oil in large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add sausage and cook for a couple of minutes, breaking up with a spatula. Add shallots, garlic, kosher salt, black pepper and crushed red pepper to taste, and continue to saute for a total of five to seven minutes.

Meantime, combine fish stock, bay leaf and saffron in a small saucepan over medium until simmering, reduce heat to low and keep warm.

Add arborio rice to the sausage mixture and stir for two minutes. Stir in anchovy and tomato pastes and paprika.

Add wine, stirring constantly for about three minutes until wine evaporates. Stir in thyme. Add warm fish stock by ladlefuls, allow to reduce and continue to stir until rice is tender and liquid is creamy, about 20-25 minutes.

Mix shrimp, scallops, crab and peas into risotto and combine gently until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle zest on dish and serve.

Michael Symon's Spicy Tomato Soup with Blue Cheese

Tomato soup, in all its forms, is rich, comforting and complex. Over the years, I've made a number of versions: with fresh ripe summer tomatoes and basil; with roasted tomatoes and mixed herbs; and with pancetta and tapenade. All have a place in my kitchen.

So, when I saw Michael Symon's version with Sriracha and blue cheese, I was intrigued. I first saw the recipe when flipping through his new cookbook, Live to Cook, and it remained lodged in my mind for a few weeks.

I recently had a few moments to spare, with all the ingredients on hand, and was pleasantly surprised at how quick and easy it is to make.

Symon's soup combines olive oil, red onion, garlic, canned San Marzano tomatoes, chicken stock, heavy cream, Sriracha, fresh oregano and blue cheese in a big stockpot. I subbed fresh basil. You allow the soup to simmer for about 45 minutes and puree. I used a stick blender, but to get the finest consistency, follow the recipe, whirl in a blender and strain.

This soup is velvety, smokey and briney. Deeply satisfying and flavorful. It makes a lovely first course and would pair beautifully with grilled steak or roast chicken.

Next time, I'd cut the Sriracha in half and dial back on the cream. I love the heat but the spice might be too much for some. The texture is perfect, but I lean toward less cream, even in creamy soups -- it tends to mute the flavors and weigh it down. Just a little is enough for me.

To get the recipe and view a video podcast with Michael Symon, see The Amateur Gourmet.

Spinach Salad with Apples, Cheddar and Honey Roasted Pecans

As autumn eases into winter, I want to leave you with a fall salad. This salad is hearty and substantial without being overbearing, and can serve as a main dish or first course. It blends classic seasonal flavors, but can be enjoyed all year-round. It combines spinach, apples, honey roasted pecans, bacon, sharp cheddar and golden raisins with an apple cider vinaigrette cut with Dijon, honey and lemon zest. The result is a melange of texture and flavor; crunchy, crispy, creamy, savory and sweet. See the recipe at food52.com.

This isn't a 30-minute meal; the salad takes some time. But bidding a bittersweet farewell to fall is a worthy endeavor. Try it.

Ginger Glazed Sole with a Little Help from my Friends

I've found that one of the lovely and unexpected benefits of being a food blogger and writer is your friends start giving you food. 

I arrived home from work one day to find a small, fragrant package in my mailbox from my friend Abbie, a talented and creative home cook in Austin. Inside, some beautiful handcrafted dried blood orange slices and finishing salt from her kitchen.

Then, my seriously smart friend Renee from the office gave me a jar of pungent ginger preserves -- one of her favorites. And for good reason: it's golden, sweet and spicy, with a serious kick.

And finally, our hilarious, generous globetrotting friend Beth brought us back some amazing spices from Abu Dhabi, including some Kashmiri chili powder and biriyani masala. 

So I decided to combine these gifts into a dish, and came up with Ginger Glazed Sole.

I put about a quarter cup of the jam in a small saucepan, along with a drizzle of olive oil. Added a teaspoon each of the spices, a little minced garlic and a good pinch of brown sugar. I crushed a dried blood orange slice into the mixture, brushed it over the sole fillets, and baked for about 10 minutes at 350 degrees. I dusted it with the blood orange finishing salt and served with a side of steamed broccoli.

The delicate sole fillets contrasted nicely with the assertive ginger glaze. And, while this dish is not for the faint of heart -- it packs some major heat -- the sweetness of the preserves and brown sugar softens the punch. A bit.

Thanks, friends. You make me smile. 

Pasta with White Clam Sauce and Tapenade

I'm always on the lookout for great pasta dishes, and what I like about this meal is you can make the quick version when you're rushed, or you can use fresh clams in the shell and make your own tapenade when you have the luxury of time. If you go the quick route, just make sure to buy the best quality ingredients you can find. This dish finds its way on our Sunday family dinner rotation every few months. Whatever route you choose, you'll enjoy a lovely meal.

Pasta with Clams and Olive Sauce
Serves 4-6
Adapted from the Barilla box

1 pound pasta, cooked al dente (save 1/2-1 cup of pasta water)
2 tablespoons of olive oil
2 shallots, sliced thinly
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 generous tablespoon of anchovy paste or 2 tinned anchovies
pinch crushed red pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
Generous splash of white wine (1/4-1/2 cup)
2 cans or jars good quality whole clams (about 30 ounces clams), liquid from one can reserved
1 can minced clams, with liquid
1/4 cup good quality olive tapenade
1 tablespoon lemon zest

Method:
Cook pasta, reserving 1 c. pasta water. Heat oil, and saute shallots. Add garlic, anchovy paste, red pepper flakes and black pepper and combine. Add clams with liquid and bring to boil for 3 minutes. Add wine, reduce for a few minutes, and then stir in tapenade. Cook 1 minute, add cooked pasta, lemon zest, and reserved pasta water, if the pasta seems dry. Combine and serve.

Bon Appetit's Pork and Beef Chili

I've clearly got chili on my mind. This time, I adapted a Bon Appetit recipe, which originated at the now-defunct Parker Ranch Grill in Kamuela, Hawaii.

I re-ordered some of the steps, toasted the spices, used a bottle of dark beer instead of water, used dark chocolate instead of sugar, added black pepper, used less tomato paste and subbed good quality canned tomatoes instead of fresh. I also omitted the cilantro and black beans, mostly because I forgot. I think black beans would enhance this dish, but not so sure about cilantro.

The result? A rich, smoky chili that starts off sweet and eases you into the spice, which lingers a bit. I liked the addition of dark beer, and the combination of pork and beef. I also think the fire roasted tomatoes added depth of flavor.

I entered this version into our charity chili cook-off at work, and it took third place. Next time, I'll use more steak and less chocolate. I thought it was a bit too sweet this time, and the recipe below reflects these changes. The top two chilis were made by my friends and colleagues Cristi and Ryndee, who did terrific renditions of turkey chili with tequila and lime and a spicy rib-eye chili with beans. Fabulous!

My version of Bon Appetit's Pork, Beef and Black Bean Chili:

Makes 8-10 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 cups thinly sliced onions
3 cups diced red bell peppers
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound ground pork
1/2 pound ground beef
1.5 pounds chuck steak, fat trimmed, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 bottle dark beer
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons black pepper
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
12 ounces tomato paste
2 small squares of 70% dark chocolate
1 28 ounce can of diced tomatoes
1 14.5 ounce can of fire roasted tomatoes
3 cups black beans, drained and rinsed
2 3/4 cups beef broth
Grated cheddar cheese, for serving

Heat olive oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion, red bell pepper and garlic and cook until soft, about 20 minutes, stirring often.

Add ground pork and ground beef and saute for a few minutes. Add cubed beef and saute another five minutes or so.

Meantime, toast cumin, chili powder, oregano and cayenne pepper in a small pan over medium high heat. Add toasted spices to meat mixture. Add salt and pepper and cook for a few minutes. Try to resist tasting; give the flavors a few minutes to meld first!

Pour in the dark beer. Stir, reduce heat, cover and simmer for about 10 minutes.

Add tomato paste, tomatoes, chocolate and black beans. Stir in beef broth 3/4 cup at a time, until the chili reaches your desired consistency. Simmer for 30-45 minutes, stirring occasionally, then adjust seasonings and serve with grated cheese.

Do you have a favorite chili recipe? Tell me about it!

Italian Chicken Chili and Rosemary Thyme Pita Chips

The changing seasons usher in new flavors and new dishes -- and Fall brings with it the best of both. It's time to break out the dutch oven and create all manner of soups, stews, braises and chili.

Wes' sister and her son came for dinner on Halloween, so I decided to improvise on the standard one-pot meal and make an Italian-inspired chicken chili.

Actually, it's a bit of a stretch to call this chili -- it's more like a stew, or with a little more liquid, could pass as a soup. Paired with crispy, herby Rosemary Thyme Pita Chips by machef on food52, it made for a perfect pre-trick-or-treat meal.

These lightly sweet and savory crisps are now a staple in our home

What Fall dishes make it back to your table year-after-year? I'd love to hear about your favorites in the comments section.

Italian Chicken Chili

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced thinly

2 medium carrots, diced

2 stalks celery, diced

1/2 a red bell pepper, diced

3 cloves minced garlic

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

crushed red pepper, to taste

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano (you can use fresh but I only had dried on hand)

1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme

1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage

1/2 cup dry white wine, preferably Italian

3.5 cups cooked, shredded chicken, white and dark meat

1 15 oz can drained and rinsed cannellini beans

2-3 cups homemade chicken stock, to taste (you can use a good-quality canned stock, but will sacrifice flavor)

1/3 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped

Freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese, for serving

1) Pour olive oil into a large dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, celery and red pepper and cook until soft, about 15 minutes, stirring often.

2) Add garlic, salt, pepper, crushed red pepper and dried and fresh herbs. Enjoy the earthy, fragrant scents that waft through your kitchen.

3) Deglaze the pot with the white wine, scraping up any lovely browned bits from the bottom.

4) Add chicken, beans and combine gently until lightly warmed, taking care to keep the beans whole.

5) Pour the stock into the chicken mixture. Be liberal if you want a brothy, soupy consistency, and less if you're looking for a chili or stew consistency.

6) Continue to cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Garnish with chopped basil leaves and freshly grated parmesan.

Serve with rosemary pita chips, a crisp green salad, and a glass of wine. Enjoy!

Pasta All'matriciana

Pasta All'matriciana is a sumptuous, simple dish. It's rich and hearty, with a spicy, salty bite. Traditionally made with spaghetti or bucatini, I subbed farfalle because that's what I had. I added garlic, also untraditional, and used a local bottled tomato sauce to make this a weeknight-friendly dish. This recipe generously serves two, or allows for a small lunch portion the following day.

Ingredients:

1/2 pound farfalle, cooked al dente

1 tablespoon olive oil

Half an onion, sliced thinly

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salt, pepper and crushed red pepper to taste

1/3 pound pancetta, cubed

Half a bottle of good quality chunky tomato sauce, or homemade sauce

Pecorino cheese, to taste

Directions:

Saute the onion in olive oil over medium heat until soft and lightly browned in a large skillet. Add garlic and stir to combine. Add salt, pepper and crushed red pepper. Meantime, in a small skillet, saute pancetta until crispy and brown. Remove with slotted spoon and add to onion mixture, along with about a tablespoon of the fat. Add al dente pasta to the pancetta and onion mixture and combine. Pour in tomato sauce and heat until warmed. Serve with pecorino, a crispy green salad and a glass of good red wine.