Pasta with Lamb Sauce

When it comes to lamb, I've arrived to the party fashionably late. I've really only grown to appreciate it in the last 10 years. But today, I adore lamb chops, roast lamb, lamb ragu, and my latest concoction: pasta with lamb sauce.

Pasta with lamb sauce is really a simpler, cleaner tasting ragu -- I omit the tomatoes, celery and carrots. The end result is essentially pasta with ground meat, but it's so much more than that.

Lamb's rustic assertiveness, combined with the sweet shallot and earthy rosemary, makes this a flavorful dish I crave regularly. Its simplicity is its beauty; as much as I love a ragu, I find the tomatoes can mute the aromatics, herbs and the lamb, and lend a certain heaviness. With this version, every flavor bursts through brightly. Give it a try.

Pasta with Lamb Sauce

2 T olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced shallots
4 cloves minced garlic

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and crushed red pepper to taste

2 T minced fresh rosemary

1.25 pounds ground lamb

1/2 cup dry white wine

Pasta cooking water, if needed

Freshly grated parmesan

3/4 pounds short-cut pasta, such as penne or fusilli (plain, whole wheat or brown rice)

Boil pasta in salted water to al dente. Drain and save up to 1 cup pasta water. Meantime, heat olive oil in a large saute pan over medium. Add shallots, cook for several minutes until soft, then add garlic. Continue to saute a few more minutes until shallots are lightly browned; add rosemary and stir well to combine.

Add ground lamb and break up to combine. Turn up flame to medium high. When the lamb is slightly pink, deglaze with white wine and allow to reduce for a few minutes. If pan seems dry, add a little pasta water. Add cooked pasta to lamb and combine well. Serve with freshly grated parmesan, a glass of red and a vegetable such as broccoli or asparagus.

Head East

Going to the farmers’ market is one of my favorite things. In Detroit, we’re lucky to have Eastern Market. In the midst of a major renovation, it’s about to become a world-class outdoor urban market and a great source for all things fresh and local.

On a typical spring weekend, you can find local asparagus, lettuces, onions, garlic, herbs, cheeses, honey, meats, beans, pastas, spices, jams, apple cider, breads and pastries. Michigan’s offerings only improve as summer progresses.

This year, the market will host a series of 26 live cooking demonstrations on Saturdays, May-Oct. The Taste of Eastern Market series kicked off May 2 with Food Network Iron Chef Michael Symon, owner of Roast, the Free Press Restaurant of the Year. The idea is to show shoppers how to creatively use the seasonal produce available at the market.

In that spirit, Symon grilled lamb t-bones, with Greek yogurt and a salad of fava bean, fresh peas, ramps (a cross between garlic and leeks), radishes, toasted almonds and feta with mint-chili vinaigrette.

His advice: buy the best ingredients you can afford and cook for your palate. Figure out what tastes and flavors you like and go with it... do you like salty, sweet, acid, or fatty flavors? Once you know that, you can focus your menus accordingly.

Consider contrasts in flavor and temperature and try to balance them with each meal -- such as the acid, tangy yogurt with the salty feta and fatty lamb, or plating the cool vegetable salad atop the grilled lamb.

Finally, he offered some tips for grilling or pan-frying meat or poultry:

-Unwrap, season with salt and pepper, rewrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours before cooking

-Allow meat to come to room temperature (1-2 hours) before cooking

-If you want tender, juicy meat, let it be once it’s on the grill/skillet, don’t be poking, pressing or prodding on it

-If it sticks to the grill/skillet, don’t flip it, it’s not ready

-When it’s done, remove from the heat and let it rest for at least a few minutes before slicing or eating

By supporting local farmers, you are assured that your food is fresh, often organic, and in many cases, less expensive than at the grocery store. You know it hasn’t been flown or trucked 1,000 miles. Plus, it supports the local economy and we can all feel good about that in tough times. For the most part, the farmers truly care about food and are unwilling to compromise their standards to make a few bucks. And even if none of this interests you, strolling through the market offers great people watching.

So, this summer, I encourage you to skip the big box grocery. If you go, wear comfy shoes, bring a big bag or wagon, and lots of cash, preferably small bills.

Stay tuned for Part II with Chef Symon.